Explorer’s Journal: Off the Beaten Path in Costa Rica with Destination Expert Mikey

Join Destination Expert Mikey on a journey through Costa Rica’s wildest and most remote corners, where dense rainforests, winding river canals, and untouched coastlines reveal the country’s extraordinary biodiversity. From the turtle-filled waterways of Tortuguero on the Caribbean coast to the rugged beauty of the Osa Peninsula on the Pacific side, this itinerary goes far beyond the typical highlights. Along the way, you’ll encounter vibrant wildlife, explore lesser-known regions, and experience the raw, immersive side of Costa Rica that makes it such a rewarding destination.

Hi everyone, Destination Expert Mikey here! I’m checking in from Costa Rica, where I’ve been exploring both the Caribbean and Pacific coasts on a journey that’s taken me well off the beaten path. From boating through jungle-lined canals in Tortuguero to staying in a treehouse overlooking the ocean near Corcovado National Park, every stop has felt completely different. I’ve had the chance to spot incredible wildlife, visit remote lodges, and experience a side of Costa Rica that many travelers miss, and I’m excited to share what it’s really like to explore these regions firsthand.

Arrival in San José and discovering Costa Rica’s cultural side

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Exploring San José with Destination Expert Mikey (Photo: Mikey Blount).

This small country packs an impressive punch, home to about 5% of the world’s species despite making up just 0.03% of its landmass. In other words, it’s an incredible destination for wildlife enthusiasts, adventurers, and nature lovers. My journey will take me to two of the more remote regions on each coast: Tortuguero on the Caribbean side and the Osa Peninsula on the Pacific side.

Before venturing to these remote destinations, most travelers arrive in the capital city of San José, located in the Central Valley. While San José isn’t known for iconic landmarks, it does offer some of the country’s best museums, such as the Jade Museum, where I enjoyed learning about Costa Rica’s pre-Columbian cultures.

I also loved visiting the National Theater, with its gold detailing and beautifully painted ceilings inspired by the wealth generated during the coffee boom, known as “grano de oro,” or golden grain. The experience is surprisingly engaging, as actors portraying historical figures guide you through the theater’s history and construction.

During my time in San José, I visited two boutique properties, each with its own character. Grano de Oro, set in a converted Victorian mansion downtown, is an excellent base for exploring the city. Finca Rosa Blanca, located just outside the city and closer to the airport, is perfect for a quiet, relaxing stay. It also has its own coffee farm and offers coffee-tasting tours. My favorite part was trying a cookie made from flour derived from the coffee bean’s skin.

Into the wild canals of Tortuguero

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Spotting monkeys and exploring Tortuguero (Photo: Mikey Blount).

I left San José behind and headed to the Caribbean coast. Tortuguero, or “Land of Turtles,” gets its name from the countless turtles that nest on its beaches each year between July and October. If you’re visiting Costa Rica outside those months, don’t worry, there is still plenty of wildlife to see in this swampy rainforest, which is protected as a national park.

Tortuguero is only accessible by boat, so getting there is part of the adventure. The journey begins with a private overland transfer from San José to the La Pavona river dock, which takes about three hours. From there, I boarded a comfortable motorboat for a 45-minute ride along the Suerte River to reach my home for the next two nights: Manatus Lodge. Because of its remote location, accommodations in Tortuguero tend to be more rustic than the resorts of Arenal and Manuel Antonio. I really enjoyed my spacious cabin with an outdoor shower, a perfect spot to watch monkeys in the trees above, and the lodge’s pool, which offers a beautiful view of the river.

After settling in, I took a boat ride to the village of Tortuguero, a great place to enjoy a coffee and shop for local handicrafts. I was surprised when my guide explained that jaguar sightings are not uncommon and that locals have had to build fences to protect their livestock.

The following day, I went on two boat tours along the canals, where my guide pointed out local wildlife, including three types of monkeys: spider monkeys, howler monkeys, and white-faced capuchins. We also spotted iguanas, crocodiles, Jesus Christ lizards (yes, they really do walk on water!), and sloths.

The highlight of my visit was the turtle nesting tour. At night, guides take visitors to the beach to watch sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. It is a quiet, carefully managed experience, and visitors are not allowed to take photos so as not to disturb the turtles. Watching a large turtle lay her eggs, cover them with sand, and then dig another hole to camouflage the real nest was something I will never forget. It gave me a deeper appreciation for these incredible creatures and the fascinating ways nature works.

From the Caribbean coast to the Osa Peninsula

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Leaving the Caribbean to head to the Pacific coast of Costa Rica (Photo: Mikey Blount).

Time to switch things up from the Caribbean to the Pacific. This side of Costa Rica has a completely different feel, both in terms of culture and landscape. To get there, I took a short 45-minute domestic flight from San José to Drake Bay Airport, located at the base of the Osa Peninsula, the “hook” near the border with Panama. Once again, the remote location meant that my lodging, Corcovado Wilderness Lodge, was only reachable by boat, this time along the Pacific coastline in open waters, making for a slightly bumpy ride.

Upon arrival at the lodge, I felt like I was truly in paradise. The scenery is stunning, and my luxury treehouse came with an incredible ocean view. I could even see Caño Island in the distance (more on that later). The large terrace featured a hammock and a bathtub, where I spent my afternoons listening to the sounds of the jungle and watching the sunset in the evenings.

Corcovado Wilderness Lodge is also home to some incredible wildlife, as it sits right on the border of Corcovado National Park, a biodiversity hotspot even by Costa Rican standards. While enjoying my first delicious lunch, I spotted a family of coatis running across the property. Later, I came across a group of cheeky white-faced capuchin monkeys playfully swinging through the treetops. The most unexpected sighting was a tapir, which roams the property in the evenings. Unlike me, you might get lucky enough to spot a puma, which made an appearance while I was taking a nap.

Exploring Corcovado and Caño Island

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Beautiful scenery in Corcovado National Park and Caño Island (Photo: Mikey Blount).

While there’s no shortage of activities on the property, Corcovado Wilderness Lodge also offers several off-site excursions that I was able to experience during my stay. Thanks to its location right next to Corcovado National Park, it’s easy to enjoy a morning visit inside the park. I met my guide at 7 AM and entered via a trail that begins on the lodge property and ends at San Pedrillo Station, one of the park’s ranger stations.

As we hiked along the muddy trails, I was glad that rubber boots were provided, especially during the Pacific green season, which runs from May to November. Interestingly, this contrasts with the Caribbean coast, where the driest months fall between October and November. The highlight of the walk was seeing a group of scarlet macaws using their powerful beaks to crack open seeds from a beach almond tree while a family of howler monkeys occupied the same tree nearby.

It’s not all jungle walks and muddy trails. One of the standout attractions near Corcovado Wilderness Lodge is Caño Island, a world-class spot for snorkeling, diving, or simply relaxing on the beach. While the day I visited wasn’t ideal for snorkeling, the 50-minute boat ride was incredible for spotting pods of dolphins and even the occasional whale. Once ashore, my guide led me up to a viewpoint with a panoramic vista of the beach, golden sand, tall palms, and a remote setting that felt like something out of Survivor.

By the end of my trip, I was so glad I had explored these two stunning destinations. While most travelers flock to Arenal, Manuel Antonio, or Tamarindo, going off the beaten path can be incredibly rewarding.