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Dig Deeper
June 20, 2014

By: Nick Dall

Antarctica: Scott and Amundsen’s race to the South Pole

Antarctica is only the fifth largest continent, but it’s got loads of firsts too. Antarctica is the driest, coldest and windiest continent, and it also has the highest average elevation. It is the only continent with no permanent residents and it’s home to 90% of the world’s ice and 70% of global fresh water reserves.

Although the idea of a Terra Australis Incognita (Undiscovered Southern Land) was first proposed by the Greco-Roman thinker Ptolemy as early as the 1st century AD, nobody really had any clue how as to its exact location or size. In 1773 Captain Cook crossed the Antarctic Circle, proving once and for all that any southern landmass would be a (smallish) continent in its own right – not attached to South America or Australia as many had thought.

Antarctica penguins Christopher Michel
Picture: Christopher Michel

Less than fifty years later the Russian sailor Fabian von Bellingshausen confirmed the existence of Antarctica when he sighted land, and only a year after that the American sealer John Davis was the first to make landfall. In the 1840s Sir James Clark Ross undertook the first significant exploration of the continent and to this day numerous Antarctic landmarks are named after him.

But it was not until the early 1900s that Antarctica would really seize the headlines. In 1901 Britons Robert Scott and Ernest Shackleton attempted to reach the South Pole on the Discovery Expedition. This first sortie served mainly to show them how little they knew about Antarctic exploration, and the fact that they were able to reach 82°S had far more to do with their guts and endurance than it had to do with their preparation or expertise. In 1909 Shackleton tried again on the Nimrod Expedition and he and three companions got as far as 88°S – only 112 miles from the pole.

Antarctica Christopher Michel
Picture: Christopher Michel

Shackleton’s expedition had proved that reaching the South Pole was within human reach and a ‘Race to the pole’ between Scott and the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen commenced. Amundsen was a veteran in Arctic conditions who had skied since childhood and had spent years with the Inuits learning how to handle dogs and dogsleds. He planned meticulously for his assault on the pole, and only told Scott of his intentions once he had already sailed from Europe.

Scott wasn’t altogether unprepared (he was in Australia readying his own mission when he received the infamous telegram), but he did have to set off for Antarctica a bit sooner than he would have liked. He chose a different route to Amundsen (slightly longer, but on charted territory) and although his expedition did initially rely on dogs and skis these were soon abandoned in favour of good old-fashioned, but far less effective, manpower.

Scott and Amundsen’s experiences could not have been more different. Amundsen and his men waltzed their way to the South Pole. They arrived on 14 December 1911, spent three days taking in the sights and left a green tent and a letter for Scott. All the men (but only 11 of the 97 dogs) returned safely to their base just over a month later. For an adventure that was supposed to be the ultimate test of human endurance it was almost too easy.

Scott's party looking dejected the day after they discovered Amundsen had reached the pole first.
Scott's party looking dejected after they discovered Amundsen had reached the pole first.

Scott and four of his men did eventually make it to the pole 35 days after Amundsen. By the time they got there, their supplies were dwindling and their bodies and minds were weak. One by one they perished on the return journey – their bodies (and the letter from Amundsen) were only found the following year, perfectly preserved in the ice.

Since those heady days Antarctic exploration has never been so much in the global consciousness. But if you think that the White Continent has been tamed, think again: no-one has even come near to exploring the landmass which lies beneath the ice-caps, and this may well be the next great frontier for modern-day explorers.

* The cover photo of this post shows Amundsen at the South Pole.